Elektroroller-Forum.de

Hello everyone,
A lot to read, thanks . Page 62 so far .
Anyone knows what is the socket "fast charging" on the battery ?
Socket do not fit the charger. Inside there is a 250v mention ....
Thanks !
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1prBI0t ... p=drivesdk

As far as I've noticed, there are different versions of the battery available.
With different "fast charging" sockets and different BMS installed.
Some don't even have this socket.

At the first models of the E-Odin, the battery has had a BMS with different ports for charging and discharging.
So they've fitted a "(fast) charging" socket to the battery and wired the charging socket at the rear of the bike to this socket (without any fuse in between !).
Sometimes it was a socket with the same system as the genuine charger (so the charger would fit there as well), sometimes it was some kind of IEC320 C13 (the one where 250V ~ is mentioned) socket.

But then Dayi got batteries with a so called "common port BMS" installed (meanwhile quite common), which means that you can charge and discharge the battery through the same port, so the path through the big, fat 120A anderson connector could be used for charging as well.
Bikes with such a common port BMS could use EABS with significant currents (like 40 & 60A).
But due to safety reasons, EABS is disabled at the fardriver controller as factory default, because if the bike is fitted with an (old) battery type, with a non common port bms, trying to charge the battery while braking might kill the bms (at least thats what CityTwister 4.0 once mentioned, so he limited the current at about 8A when testing EABS).

So, if you've noticed such a socket and it is not connected at your bike or you don't even have such a socket, you can be sure that you've got a common port bms.... and enabeling EABS would be a good thing.
If there is a connection between the charging socket at the rear of the bike and the "fast charging" socket of your battery, it might be a risk to activate EABS, especially at the early models of the bike.

My own bike, delivered in 11/2021, has such a connection between the socket at the rear of the bike and the fast charging socket of the battery, but I risked it to activate EABS with 40 & 60A.... and it worked .
Ok, it wasn't really a risk for me, because with a good multimeter (which can measure very low resistances) you can proof that the + and - pins of the "fast charging socket" are directly connected to + and - of the anderson connector, which only is the case at a common port bms.

Hi, thanks for the Reply, complete and clear .

For the record, and others on the forum. My battery came from first batch on 2021.
Still have a 80v charge but do not charge again, the bms has Fried or something like that.
Some picture of the inside.

dark_angel hat geschrieben: ↑

Mo 17. Apr 2023, 14:28

...
For the record, and others on the forum. My battery came from first batch on 2021.
Still have a 80v charge but do not charge again, the bms has Fried or something like that.
...

That's exactly the problem that Sylvio has.... and it seems to be the same bms (look at his picture).
His battery still has some charge (about 77.2V), but couldn't be charged anymore.
Neither using the fast charging port, nor the anderson connector.

When you connect a charger to the battery, the voltage rises immediately to 84V, and the battery doesn't charge. Of course any "intelligent" charger switches off the current delivery then (believing the battery is full).... just to notice that the voltage at the output then drops below 84V, so the charger sets it's output again to 84V... and that repeats continuously (without any current beeing delivered into the cell packs).

Hello
I have the same BMS with the same problem. The circuit board can be removed relatively easily from the silicone. But be careful, I solved it with a piece of wood.
In my opinion, the cables must be soldered to connection 19 and 9a. There is exactly half the battery voltage then.

Greetings from Schwielowsee
Sylvio

Hi,
it's probably the same problem as Sylvio.
Mine is clear, some components are fried

First try to unsolder every one and solder new in place.
Really hard to unsolder even with a good soldering Iron.
Hard to find the same reference too ...

So I will replace the BMS by a New one, with bluetooth,...

dark_angel hat geschrieben: ↑

Mo 24. Apr 2023, 17:02

Hi,
it's probably the same problem as Sylvio.
Mine is clear, some components are fried

First try to unsolder every one and solder new in place.
Really hard to unsolder even with a good soldering Iron.
Hard to find the same reference too ...

So I will replace the BMS by a New one, with bluetooth,...

Hello! What is the bms you have put? Is it possible to change it using the same cell connections?

dark_angel hat geschrieben: ↑

Mo 24. Apr 2023, 17:02

Hi,
it's probably the same problem as Sylvio.
Mine is clear, some components are fried

First try to unsolder every one and solder new in place.
Really hard to unsolder even with a good soldering Iron.
Hard to find the same reference too ...

So I will replace the BMS by a New one, with bluetooth,...

Woah, sorry, but this looks awfull!

You have bridged the FETs with solder over the traces between source and drain. So it may work with no or little load.

It seems like you don`t know what you are doing.

Trust me, it would be a better way to remove the BMS completely, because due to the (accidentally?) bridged traces it wouldn`t be able to cut off anyway.

I bet these traces will melt or burn under load.

Please don`t post such pictures in an open forum and don`t try to convince others to do the same!

Kids, don`t try this at home!

SCNR!

Hi !

Unfortunately I didn't do anything to these photos. They are original. I simply removed the silicone and the first burnt components.
But everything is original, 100% made in china... the terrible welds and the wire brigde too...

error hat geschrieben: ↑

Sa 22. Jul 2023, 02:34

dark_angel hat geschrieben: ↑

Mo 24. Apr 2023, 17:02

Hi,
it's probably the same problem as Sylvio.
Mine is clear, some components are fried

First try to unsolder every one and solder new in place.
Really hard to unsolder even with a good soldering Iron.
Hard to find the same reference too ...

So I will replace the BMS by a New one, with bluetooth,...

Woah, sorry, but this looks awfull!

You have bridged the FETs with solder over the traces between source and drain. So it may work with no or little load.

It seems like you don`t know what you are doing.

Trust me, it would be a better way to remove the BMS completely, because due to the (accidentally?) bridged traces it wouldn`t be able to cut off anyway.

I bet these traces will melt or burn under load.

Please don`t post such pictures in an open forum and don`t try to convince others to do the same!

Kids, don`t try this at home!

SCNR!