Cut out in "3" but power stayed on and still worked in "2" : NOW FIXED

[bob2.0]

At the moment I am assuming thermal damage at the terminals as the underlying cause.

Has anyone seen this on theirs? All my phase terminals show melting, the centre one the most.

The cable sheath is damaged on both, I will repair those. Perhaps humidity caused detection of a partial short circuit?

This may not be it, but if the indication is a motor problem then it seems to be a candidate, and needs to be fixed anyway.

I have ordered copper washers (so they can form a ductile close contact over the damage) and replacement stainless bolts, as the old ones were rusted. Would you do this, is it a good idea?

[dominik]

I would think this is because of a loose or bad connection.

[jeff-jordan]

I would think this is because of a loose or bad connection.

that's the most likely cause...

Anyway:
I don't know if copper washers are a good idea .
I assume that the terminals are made of solid aluminium, so copper will lead to a fast corrosion of the terminals, due to the normal humidity of the air.

Try to get aluminium washers.

Furthermore: if you'll use stainless steel bolts, take care of the max. torque. It's quite easy to damage the threads of the terminals.
Take a closer look at this link.

[dominik]

You need CuPal washers.
https://www.klauke.com/kr/en/cupal-discs-16774

[bob2.0]

I remade all the phase connections, all nice and neat with new bolts and copper washers, but still the same fault.

I rode it a bit hoping it'd fix itself.

It is fine in 1 and 2, and above 60kph in 3 it will go to full power (though the battery is low and is not at the full power map).

I can accelerate fully at >60kph, but it will cut out at full power (3) from stationary.

All I need to know really is whether there is any way this could be 'wiring'. Something come loose, wet, or shorting?

If it is the motor or controller, then there is not much I can do about it.

I am sad because I was getting to really like and trust the bike.

It seems like high phase currents are tripping the controller, so either weak FETs in the controller or some minor short in the motor. Either way, I would not spend the full price money.

[bob2.0]

That being said, is this the one, as a direct replacement? I could afford that.

[jeff-jordan]

The ND72360 is recommended for 3-4 kW scooters...
I would go for the ND72530 instead (6 - 8 kW), as I did with my E-Odin 2.0 in august '23.
It has a better (lower) source resistance (better MOSFETs) that'll give you a little bit more "punch" when accelerating.

[bob2.0]

The ND72360 is recommended for 3-4 kW scooters...
I would go for the ND72530 instead (6 - 8 kW), as I did with my E-Odin 2.0 in august '23.
It has a better (lower) source resistance (better MOSFETs) that'll give you a little bit more "punch" when accelerating.

Thank you, yes, I was looking at your thread.

I have found a ND72530 at fair price on ebay. I'll study your thread, and hope I understand it.

I think, as you say, it is a good upgrade anyway. The original fit is a 150/330A that says it is for a 2kW motor ? How is that, then, how is that possible, and is it likely I have blown up the controller with hours spent at maximum power at motorway speeds?

I simply cannot understand how the motor could be faulty, if it is working fine at full power at speed? This must be an issue at highest phase currents and low voltage, why would that be a problem to the motor? If it was a short circuit, then the problem would be greater at higher speeds (higher voltage) and not work OK?

Do you feel this is a good plan? I order the ND72530 anyway, and just try it out?

[E-Bik Andi]

Hi bob,
If reattaching the motor cables did not improve the situation, I think there is a fault in the motor. The impedance is too high (short circuit).
I would check the coils of the motor phases to see if that is the problem. Measure the resistance of the individual motor phases. The Hall sensors have nothing to do with this.

[bob2.0]

Measure the resistance of the individual motor phases. The Hall sensors have nothing to do with this.

Thanks for the thought. Yes, I was going to measure the phase leads, and forgot!

Old age, or something.

I have an LCR meter, I will use that.

If it is something in the motor, is the QS motor serviceable? I saw a thread where someone disassembled one, but I am not sure about putting it back together!